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If you print up a test square and the height is not correct, even after you put in the correct steps for the z axis based on the hardware. If it comes up red, avoid it like the plague. This will dramatically improve your accuracy.

I recommend keeping a list of the exact layer heights you can print at. Just put in the layer height you want to print at and see if will work with your configuration. While you are at the Prusa calculator, you will notice the next widget they have, is for optimal printing layer height. Once you get that number, input it back via the M92 gcode. Make sure to find out which type of stepper motor and lead screw you have and input that information using Prusa's excellent calculator. Since most printers use a mechanical leadscrew this will be set in stone. Setting the Z steps requires a different method. In case you were wonder what is close enough, Anything that measure 19.955 on any axis is pretty damn close. Repeat these steps until you are satisfied it is close enough. Repeat this calculation for the Y axis and print again. Enter that in the GCODE area and save it to the EEPROM by typing M500. Since this is a 20mm cube, 'distance expected' will always be 20.įor example the old step value for X is M92 X114.20 and we measured 19.625mm on the X axis of the printed cube. (distance expected / distance printed) * current steps value = NEW steps per mm value. Using the following formula lets calculate the new steps-per-mm value: Measure the printed object with a pair of calipers. For marlin and smoothie firmware, this should be the M92 value for each axis. Typing M501 will let you read parameters from EEPROM. In most slicers there will be an area you can type in GCODE commands. It is important to keep track of which direction X and Y is.įind the step-per-mm values for your printer. Print a calibration cube and be sure to orient it to match the proper X and Y axes for your printer. To calibrate your axes, follow these steps: Step 1

There is a great article written bt Matterhackers on how this is all configured Most machines will come with preset steps configured, based off of the stepper motor and belt configuration. Having an uneven X and Y is where a 20mm cube will print 20.5mm on the X-axis and 19.95mm on the Y-Axis and cause circles to be over or under-sized and eleptical. With a little bit of time and measuring, prints can be within. Most people don't realize it, but you can get reasonably accurate prints with just about any 3D Printer, even with low-end clones.